Mr. & Mrs. Breitzer

2 years later...

2009-06-19T03:57:00.002-04:00

So I'm sitting here in my room at Savta Nina's house and thought to myself, "Wouldn't it be something to update that old Israel blog of ours for the first time since 2007?" While I don't think I could possibly mention everything that has happened in two years, I'll list a few important events:

-Adopted two cats in December, Tukie (M'tukah=sweet girl) and Toby (Toviah = good boy)
-Accumulated three years of cantorial study at the HUC-JIR School of Sacred Music
-Finished a two year tenure as the first-ever cantorial intern at Congregation Emanu-El of the City of New York
-Celebrated second wedding anniversary on June 10 by attending the opening night of Shakespeare in the Park
-Back in Israel for the summer, interning at HUC in Jerusalem
-Donna will join me in July to participate in the Israel Vocal Arts Institute in Yafo
-Beginning in the fall, I will be the student cantor at Temple Beth Shalom of Annapolis/Arnold, MD

It's hard to believe two years have gone by, but in the meantime life has been good to Mr. & Mrs. Breitzer. Perhaps during this summer in Israel we'll be able to post more regularly!

Newlyweds

2007-06-11T16:38:00.000-04:00

From the bottom of our hearts, we thank everyone who helped make yesterday the most wonderful day of our lives. Off to Seattle and Victoria!

Eight days away

2007-06-02T19:23:00.000-04:00

After going to two weddings in Michigan last weekend, Donna and I arrived in California late Tuesday night. Since then, I've been fully engaged in helping prepare for our wedding. It's been really neat for me to play an active role (albeit a small one) in tending to the remaining details. I especially enjoyed picking up our completed ketubah (traditional Jewish wedding contract) and finally seeing the Hayes Mansion firsthand. This afternoon I met our fantastic wedding coordinators, and got a taste of the kind of planning Donna has been doing all this year from halfway across the world!

I can't believe the big day is only eight days away, and of course we still have much to do. Yet we haven't forgotten our priorities: Donna left a little while ago for her overnight bachelorette party in San Francisco. She was wearing the same outfit she wore on our first date over two years ago. Somehow, it seems fitting!

The Redemption

2007-05-14T02:19:00.000-04:00

The war zone that was my room has been cleared, and so I had to redeem myself by showing these new photos... evidence that I am capable of bringing some order into my life!

I sort of got an idea of what it might have felt like building the Pyramids in Egypt when I was building the massive tower in the corner...

Wow, there's a rug under there!

Be sure to read Josh's eloquent post below!!!

Homecoming

2007-05-13T01:43:00.000-04:00

The last exam has been taken. The last paper has been written. I've already said l'hitraot to some dear friends and to my beautiful fiancée. (read on to see what she's been up to...) All that remains for me here is a few more shared meals and one more trip to Rehovot to thank Savta and Saba for opening up their home (and refrigerator!) to us this year.

If I had to choose one word to sum up my experience here, it would be "revealing." I felt as though I pried up the huge rock that has always been there in the backyard, and saw for the first time all the fascinating stuff lying beneath it. Sure, it's a bit dirty, and there is strange stuff under there that might scare you off at first glance. But upon examining more closely, I encountered things I never knew, and learned more than I could have possibly imagined.

I know I'm not the first to have had a revealing experience in Israel, and I know I won't be the last. I only hope that people don't shy away from prying up a rock because they're afraid of getting their hands a little dirty. This is still a young country, with all the issues that any young country must face. Israel is still very much under construction (indeed, I can hear the bulldozers even here within the HUC library). It's a work in progress, and there is no telling when it will ever be completed. Maybe completion doesn't even matter -- maybe it's the work that counts.

In 1836, when the USA was 60 years old, slavery was still in full swing. The government was still very concerned with infrastructure -- basic utilities, public schools, transportation routes. Like Israel, it was a grand experiment, and nobody could have predicted it to turn out the way it has. Like Israel, it's still fraught with problems. And yet, like Israel, it's home.

And this is Donna's home, immediately following her wedding shower and a shopping spree:

I can't wait to come home. :)

Pesach in Israel

2007-04-05T13:57:00.000-04:00

Chag sameach! We are in the middle of the Passover week here in Israel and are enjoying very much spending the holiday here. It is a lot easier than trying to keep Pesach in the US! Here, many restaurants have kosher-for-Passover menus, there are all kinds of special foods in the stores, and, well, everyone else is keeping Passover so there aren't too many 'chametz' temptations!

This past week was very special for us, as Josh's dad Gerry made his first-ever trip to Israel. His stay was short but I think he got to see many aspects of Israeli life and culture, as well as some good tourism hot-spots. Among the sites we visited with Gerry were the Kotel, Jerusalem's Old City and Yad V'Shem; Massada, Ein Gedi and the Dead Sea; Tel Aviv and Jaffo; Rehovot (to be treated to Savta's hospitality, of course!); and all over Jerusalem -- including the shuk. We even got lost in the Arab villages atop the Mt. of Olives, an experience which put us on edge at the time, but which is inevitable if you're trying to navigate Jerusalem by car...

And, of course, we enjoyed the Passover seder with my Israeli family. It was especially interesting to follow along the haggadah reading in Hebrew at the speed of lightning, which is about how fast my relatives were reading! The food and the conversation were great, however, and we were really happy that Gerry was with us. Everyone in my family likes him a lot!

Gerry left to go back to Michigan last night, and now we have another week of vacation ahead. Josh starts classes again on April 12, and I am teaching lessons and preparing for a Holocaust Memorial Day concert I'm singing in on April 16. Josh is also singing on the same day in a different concert that will be broadcast on the national arts and culture radio station.

Finally, some fun news: Josh and I finally booked reservations for our honeymoon! We're going to Victoria, British Columbia and will explore Seattle as well. Check out our lovely B&B in Victoria, the Ambrosia Bed and Breakfast!

Next year in... New York!

2007-03-29T11:48:00.000-04:00

At long last, Passover break has begun, and with it comes some exciting developments!

We're finally done with the student pulpit placement process for the coming year, and I have been given the student cantor position at Congregation Emanu-El in New York City, the largest synagogue in the world. This is the first time they have ever taken on a student cantor, and I'll get many opportunities to perform beautiful music from the Classical Reform Jewish tradition with the senior cantor, professional choir and organ. I'll also be a part of their newly-revamped Lifelong Learning program, teaching music in the religious school, and even writing the occasional sermon! As if it weren't obvious, I'm very excited to be working there next year, especially since I'll be reunited with my old Glee Club bud Adam, who is continuing on as the rabbinical intern at Emanu-El.

In other news, my dad is arriving in Israel tomorrow for his first trip both to Israel and out of North America. He'll only be here for five days, so it's up to Donna and me to show him as good a time as possible. Highlights will include Shabbat dinner at Saba and Savta's, Shabbat morning services at HUC (featuring Donna's first traditional Torah chanting since 1992), Leil Seder at Dudi and Yehudit's, and trips to Masada and the Dead Sea. We'll be sure to get plenty of pictures to post!

I gave a concert last week in Tel Aviv of art songs by Arie ben Er'ez Abrahamson, a master jeweller by trade who not only survived the Holocaust in dramatic fashion but also wrote a lot of music. The works we performed were mostly taken from the 1930s-40s, in anticipation of Holocaust Remembrance Day next month. We'll be repeating the program on that very day - April 16 - here in Jerusalem, and it will be broadcast live across the country on Kol HaMusica, the Israeli classical music radio station! Should there be simultaneous streaming available, I will definitely put the link here.

Best to all for a happy and healthy holiday: chag sameach vekasher!

"Patience" Pics!!

2007-03-16T05:04:00.000-04:00

I finally have access to amazing photos from the show. These were taken by JEST colleague Brian Negin during the first two performances. All the photos can be seen via a guest pass on Brian's Flickr site: Patience Album. Here are a few of the choice shots -- click on the photos to see them full-size!

Opening scene: Twenty (or so) Lovesick Maidens We

"In A Doleful Train" ~ the maidens pine over Reginald Bunthorne

Patience and Angela's Duet ~ "Oh, forgive her, Eros!"

Act I Finale: "Oh shameless one!"

Act I Finale: The maidens attack Grosvenor!

Act II: Grosvenor sings the fable of "The Magnet and the Churn"

Act II Quintet: "In sections of three -- RAPTURE!"

Act II Finale: The "Swears and Wells young girls" are reformed; Lady Angela marries Major Murgatroyd (on the right)

Hopefully I'll have some of my own backstage pics soon! Don't forget to check out the album!

"Patience"

2007-03-13T07:55:00.000-04:00

This week marked the opening of "Patience" with the Jerusalem English Speaking Theater in partnership with the Jerusalem Gilbert and Sullivan Society. It has been a very LOOONG rehearsal process, one that I haven't experienced since the last time I did community theater (coincidentally, when I did G&S shows in college). Opening night brought with it an unprecedented challenge for me: I woke up on Sunday morning before the dress rehearsal with a sore throat and completely hoarse voice. I didn't sing at all at the dress rehearsal on Sunday night and prayed that I would be able to sing on Monday for the show...

Monday morning I found myself still quite sick and very, very hoarse. After panicking for a few hours, I calmed myself down (with the help of Josh, who came home from school because he was worried about me.... more proof that he's beyond amazing). I realized that somehow or other, I had to go onstage and so I did my best to warm up my voice. I don't know if I have ever relied so heavily on my years of training as I did to get me through the first performance.... it certainly took a lot of concentration! Josh and Mary were in the audience last night and they both swear that there wasn't any evidence that I was so sick.

Now I just have to get through another performance tonight, and TWO tomorrow -- back to back! And of course, four more next week. Haven't taken any photos yet, but I promise to do so very soon...

Updates, updates, updates!

2007-03-05T05:30:00.000-05:00

Hi, Josh and Donna here. We have been neglecting the blog because we've actually been really busy! But we finally have some time today as the city of Jerusalem celebrates the festival of Purim (see below) and Josh has the day off of school. We have a few things we wanted to blog about... we'll try to be brief so this post doesn't go on for three pages!

HUC Tiyul to the Negev
At the end of February, we went to the Negev desert area and Eilat on HUC's final extended field trip of this year. We stayed a couple nights at Kibbutz Yahel, the first Progressive Jewish (Reform) kibbutz in Israel. The highlights of the tiyul were our all-day hike in the Negev, specifically in the Red Canyon; snorkeling in the Red Sea at Eilat; sleeping overnight in a mock-Bedouin tent (it was run by hippie Jews) and visiting the super eco-conscious Kibbutz Lotan. All the photos are up at Donna's Flickr photo website as usual, but here are a couple faves:

At the top of the first big climb, with a spectacular view of the Negev mountains in the background.

The hike was so much fun!!

After our all-day hike: Sunset at the Bedouin tents. We were a bit tired!

Visiting Guests
Our friend Siri was here this week on her way from Vienna (where she was living for six months) to India. Siri is going to India and Nepal to teach English and music for 10 months! We enjoyed having her here -- it was her first time in Israel -- and Donna played tour guide in the Old City.

Siri and Donna with a vegetable seller in the market. They all couldn't keep their eyes off this tall blonde woman and HAD to have photos taken with her!

Donna at the Kotel

While Siri was here, we went to Stephanie's place for "Camp Shabbat," a recreation of Shabbat practices at all the various Jewish sleepaway camps in the US. It was loads of fun, and we sang practically every Jewish camp song in the world! Siri left for India on Sunday and we wish her the best of luck on her journeys!

Purim in Jerusalem
Finally, last night we celebrated the festival of Purim at HUC and in Jerusalem at large. It was certainly one of the most fun, most memorable and most hilarious Purim celebrations either of us have been a part of! Josh and Phil planned and led a rollicking Purim service that had people laughing the whole night. Along with some faculty members, many different students -- including Josh -- participated in the Megillah reading of the entire book of Esther! Donna takes full credit for Josh's costume here (we call him "Fruma Shukele"), and Donna ran publicity for "Patience" by wearing her Act II finale costume!

Josh as a disturbingly lovely "frum" girl, and Donna as Lady Angela

Fruma Shukele and Marilyn Monroe (Phil) lead an amazing Purim service

After the Megillah reading and service, we were highly entertained by the "Shushan Night Live" Purim spiel -- all the skits were parodies of SNL favorites! Donna laughed very hard throughout the spiel, especially at Josh's funny sketches!

Josh and Jamie's "Night at the Orthodox Roxbury"

And finally, after the spiel we went out dancing at a gay bar (?) appropriately called Shushan, and then walked the streets to see all the revelers out and about. Once again, you have to check out the photo album online to see all the great pics! We had loads of fun... we're a little pooped today but we're enjoying the day off. More posts -- we promise -- to come soon. Chag Sameach!

Up All Night

2007-02-17T08:59:00.000-05:00

Hello, Donna and Josh here, writing a little update on Jerusalem goings-on...

Last night Josh and most of his cantorial colleagues dragged themselves out of bed in the middle of the night to attend a very special 3:00am service at the Aleppo Synagogue. "Bakashot" services take place between Simchat Torah and Pesach, in the dead of winter when the nights are long and there are a lot of specific things to pray for. The members of the congregation turn out at 3am every Shabbat to sing liturgical poetry until the sun rises. As part of a series of field trips led by Eli Schleifer, head of the cantorial program, the brave students went to Bakashot last night and ended up at Anna and Jamie's apartment for bagels at 7am. Then they all crawled home to get some sleep!

Some other updates: Donna had a really nice, relaxing birthday on Valentine's Day, and was thrilled when Josh came home with red roses -- so sweet! Donna had rehearsal for "Patience" but we were able to grab dinner beforehand at one of our favorite cafes. The show is now less than a month away, and it's really shaping up!

Yesterday we went to Rehovot (which seems now to be happening weekly) to say goodbye to Michael before he flew home to Cali on Saturday. The poor guy was sick all week and missed out on a lot of touring. We ate lunch at Savta and Saba's (of course) and were sent home with more tupperware full of food (of course.) On Thursday night we had five friends over for dinner to help us eat all the food in our fridge, and we still had a week's worth of food left after our huge meal! Thank goodness we can freeze most of it...

We are both looking forward to this coming week when we will be going to the Negev and Eilat on HUC's last tiyul of the year. This outdoorsy-type trip will consist of hiking, snorkeling, touring and, of course, educational programming. It will be nice to get out of rainy Jerusalem!

That's it for now. More soon!!

The Shortest and Busiest Month

2007-02-05T16:29:00.000-05:00

It's almost impossible to believe that February is already here -- and in full swing! The past two weeks were extremely hectic, hence the lack of new posts. Here is a quick update of everything that's been happening:

Michael is here! My brother arrived in Israel on Jan. 31 for a two-and-a-half week visit. This weekend we picked him up in Rehovot and brought him to Jerusalem for the weekend. Poor Mix had to endure a nighttime rainstorm that caused our shabby windows to bang relentlessly, preventing any sleep. (Okay, Josh and Mix didn't sleep. For some reason I always snore away despite the howling wind and banging windows.) I wish I had more time to spend with my brother while he's here but I am so busy with teaching and rehearsals....

Last Friday night Josh led a special Kabbalat Shabbat service and Tu Bishvat seder for visiting members of the Jewish National Fund. Mix and I were at the service and it was really lovely; we were all guests afterwards at a delicious catered dinner where we got to schmooze with nice Jewish donor-types. Saturday morning we dragged my brother to services yet again, since Josh and I were both singing (all the cantorial students, plus one wanna-be, were "volunteered" to participate in the "Shirat ha-Yam" -- Song of the Sea -- Shabbat services.) Afterwards we had fun surprising our friend Mary for a birthday luncheon and later in the evening we had pizza with Erin, Matt, Stephanie and Mary. Some pics:

Me and Mary

Excellent pic of my adorable bro.

MWAH.

On Sunday, Josh took a personal day and the three of us went back to Rehovot to enjoy Savta's hospitality and some shopping. Mix said it best: "What's a trip to Israel without tagging along while other people look at jewelry??" Because that's exactly what we did, and happily we have some fun news to share: Josh and I bought wedding rings! They are lovely and we should be able to pick them up this coming weekend.

Later on Sunday after saying a goodbye-for-now to my brother, Josh and I headed back to J-lem for a meeting with the Associate Dean of HUC, who happens to be a rabbi, for a little pre-marital counseling session. We just figured we have access to the resources, so we might as well take advantage of it. We had a nice conversation -- who doesn't love talking about themselves? -- and are considering returning for another session, maybe bringing some specific questions to the table.

Back to our real lives. Rehearsals for "Patience" are becoming more frequent, and in the past two weeks I've had added ones for our promotional concert in Herzliya that is happening tomorrow. I have even more voice students now -- I think the total is up to 20? Phew.

This "quick update" has turned into a 45-minute endeavor. More later.....

Balancing act

2007-01-23T04:50:00.000-05:00

As Donna promised, this semester has begun with a bang. Last week I met (all too briefly) with a group of aspiring ministers from the Eden Theological Seminary in St. Louis, MO. I very much enjoyed my first "interfaith" forum and look forward to continuing such work throughout my career. This Thursday the cantorial students are giving a recital of opera and musical theatre selections to benefit our colleagues who are traveling to the Former Soviet Union to lead Passover seders. Next week I am participating in a special Kabbalat Shabbat - Tu biShvat service for a visiting group from the Jewish National Fund. And of course there is the sheaf of classes to contend with; in addition to Hebrew and Liturgy and Jewish Music History, I am taking a course on Israel Folk/Popular Music, a Cantorial Workshop in which we learn as much practical repertoire as possible, and also a series of lectures and discussions on Rabbinic literature. Although I'm not required to take this last class, I'm excited to learn about material that has heretofore mystified me.

There will be a moment of escape this Shabbat to Kiryat Moriah, the home of the Jewish Agency and a special program with Avichai Shelichim: Israelis who come to the USA in the summers to work at Jewish camps. As my last experience at a Jewish camp was for 2 weeks 15 years ago while my father was the camp doctor, I am excited to renew this ancient connection and make new acquaintances!

The cantorial class has begun making plans to audition for next year's student pulpits via a DVD recording early next month. I find myself dwelling on the event, perhaps a bit too much, since it effectively marks the beginning of my professional career. But I know I will secure a fine job and gain a lot of valuable experience in a real synagogue.

And of course, there is the wedding looming less than five months from now. Tending to all of these proves to be quite the balancing act for yours truly, but I know that this too is good preparation for what lies ahead.

Off to California!

2007-01-16T02:46:00.000-05:00

I'm skipping town for 10 days to go home to California and I'm looking forward to seeing my family and friends (and my poochie.) I leave tonight and have a 24-hr journey ahead of me; I arrive in Cali tomorrow (Wednesday) at noon. I hope to be able to get a LOT of wedding details ironed out, and especially to spend time with my sister and parents (and my brother if he shows up) and also hang out a bit with my peeps. I haven't been home since October, but that's nothing compared to Josh, who hasn't been in Michigan since June! (Josh did go stateside in August, if you recall...)

I'm definitely going to miss a few important events here in Jerusalem while I'm gone. Sadly, I am missing the Cantorial students' fundraising concert on the 25th, due to an oversight on my part when I booked my tickets. They are raising money for the upcoming Passover trip to the Former Soviet Union. Read more about it at Anna and Jamie's blog!

I'm also missing rehearsals for "Patience" which has been going very well! JEST is also putting together a concert in February that will consist of different Gilbert and Sullivan solo and ensemble numbers, and the one-act operetta "Trial by Jury" in its entirety. I will be singing Mad Margaret's songs from "Ruddigore" in the first half of the concert (I did this production as a freshman in college -- in the chorus, of course!)

Josh is busy again with schoolwork and has some different classes this semester. I'm sure he'll do his own post soon to update everyone on his academic pursuits... RIGHT, JOSH??? :-)

Farewell for now, J-lem. Be back on the 27th!

Back to Normalcy

2007-01-09T16:04:00.000-05:00

Josh and I are enjoying being recovered from our crazy touring of Europe, and back to normal here in J-lem. We had a couple days to relax, and then got back to work: me with rehearsals and teaching lessons, and Josh with updating his student cantor resume and prepping for the HUC Colloquium, which starts tomorrow and lasts until Friday. Classes proper start on Sunday for Josh and then it's back to the grind! We've also been reconnecting with all the HUC kids who came back to Israel this week; tonight we watched "The Empire Strikes Back" at Michal and Jonathan's place -- they have a projector that displays the movie up on the wall! They also have two adorable kitties that we played with.

I am looking forward to immersing myself in my projects: rehearsals for "Patience," teaching voice lessons, preparing for my recital in April and participating in the Hallel Choir. Josh and I will also be singing with the Hallel select choir, a smaller group of voices that will tackle some more challenging music. I don't know if we'll have any performances... I hope we will!

I'm also looking forward to some upcoming visits! My brother is coming to Israel on January 30, and everyone is very excited. Also, our friend Siri who currently lives in Vienna is coming for a few days in March, to see Israel for the first time and to spend some time with us before she heads off to India, Tibet, Nepal and Bangladesh to teach English and music. Phew!!

And of course, I'm mostly looking forward to my own cross-planet upcoming trip!!!

More soon... we promise!

Final Posting, Farewell France!

2007-01-04T12:40:00.000-05:00

Our trip has come to an end, and we couldn't be happier with the memories and stories we collected. We were devoted to our Rick Steves Guide to Paris 2007. We ate fine French baguettes and wonderfully stinky cheese, crepes filled with all sorts of tantalizing things, and the best croissants in the world. We hit most of the big sites, walked many miles every day, and really got a great feel for this incredible city. Our trip to Switzerland was also delightful, and it was so special to see my cousins who live so far away.

Lest you think an excess of French wine blew a few too many brain cells and caused us to miss THE museum in Europe, never fear: on our last day in Paris, we went to the Louvre! This time we actually were able to get up early to beat the crowds, and we only had to wait 10 minutes until the museum opened at 9:00. The museum is so huge, easy to get lost in, and overwhelming -- but gorgeous.

Just a glimpse of the grandeur from the outside, since it could never fit in one photo.

The Louvre was originally the palace of the Kings of France until Louis XIV built Versailles. The architecture is just as grand and eye-popping, and can sometimes steal focus from the works of art! We focused our tour today on Ancient Greek art, Medieval French and Italian art, and French Renaissance and Romantic art. We hit all the famous paintings, including the Mona Lisa -- and yes, it's a lot smaller in real life. Some of the cool things we saw were: Statue of Winged Victory; statue of Venus di Milo; "The Raft of the Medusa" by Gericault; "Liberty Leading the People" by Delacroix; works by DaVinci, Raphael, and Michelangelo; and the largest canvas at the Louvre, "The Coronation" -- of Napoleon, that is -- by Jacques-Louis David. Unlike plenty of tourists around us, we were good citizens and obeyed the posted signs forbidding photos or videos. So we have fewer photos, but a strong desire to go back and see more!

Le Pyramide

An afternoon of packing, cleaning, and just plain relaxing has led to bedtime... we have a 7:00am flight so we need to turn in early and get up before the crack of dawn (although the sun doesn't really rise here until almost 9:00 ANYWAY, so one wouldn't be able to tell the difference at 5:00 when we leave!!) I myself am looking forward to getting back to Jerusalem and the regular pace of life. Josh starts school on the 10th, and I'm sure we'll both have plenty of news to share.

Happy trails........

Versailles

2007-01-04T08:05:00.000-05:00

Yesterday we took the RER train out to see Versailles. The grandeur and wealth of the Kings of France is almost too magnificent to believe. We toured the main part of the castle (including the King and Queen's bedrooms) the residencies of the Dauphin (prince), the main parts of the extensive grounds and gardens, and the Grand Trianon. Our Versailles One-Day Pass should have given us free access to the electric train that takes you all around the grounds, but apparently things have changed, and it now costs 4 Euro to ride (that's with the Pass!) No way, Jose. So... we walked the entire day, and by the time we left Versailles, I was in serious pain and we were both completely wiped out.

Some of the highlights of Versailles were the paintings by Charles le Brun, the official painter of the King, who was responsible for so many important projects at the castle and throughout Paris. The Opera House was also especially neat to visit.

Not Charles le Brun, but Hyacinthe Rigaud's painting of King Louis XIV. He was definitely the man.

Royal boxes at the Opera House. The stage pillars are hollow and don't actually hold any weight!

Most of the original furniture of the castle is gone (stolen during the Revolution) but the period furniture that replaced it is very opulent.

Beautiful clock in one of the antechambers

Louis XIV would have slept in a bed like this. He also received visitors in his bedroom, and the ceremonies of waking in the morning and going to bed at night were public.

The sheer size of the castle is nothing compared to the square mileage of the grounds; the Grand Canal (built solely for show, it used to have actual gondoliers trolling around on the water) is a mile in length. Our walk to the Grand Trianon, the royal home used as an escape from the pressures and publicity of Versailles, took roughly 30 minutes each way!

View of the grounds from the back of the castle. See the Canal in the distance? We walked out there!!

Fountain of Apollo at the foot of the canal

There were some disappointments during our visit. Versailles is undergoing a series of major renovations, as well as a complete redesign of the walking tours, to make it easier for visitors to negotiate the sheer magnitude of the castle. The most famous of all the rooms is, of course, the Hall of Mirrors... and it's being restored. Half the room was on display but half was covered up by an artificial hallway. I was really upset... but I guess it means we'll just have to come back some day?

Although we were zonked after our return to Paris, we went out to the Bastille area for our only "nice" dinner at a charming restaurant called L'Impasse. The meal was really fantastic. The restaurant was recommended in our Rick Steves book -- our bible, which we almost lost at the Grand Trianon! When we recovered the book, the guard was reading it and laughing at the funny French pronunciation guide at the back of the book. Whew, we almost lost you, Rick!

More later on our last day in Paris...

Ow, ow, my legs, my LEGS.

2007-01-02T17:58:00.000-05:00

We are SORE. Today we spent almost every single hour on our feet, and our legs are definitely staging a mighty protest! But we had a lot of fun today.

Our morning was filled with a tour of the beautiful Musee d'Orsay, the museum home of French art of 1848-1914. Even though we arrived right when the museum opened, we still had to wait in a long winding line that snaked outside of the museum. (Though if we thought THAT was bad...read on.) The museum is in an old converted train station and it is truly a beautiful setting for all the artwork. We spent three hours meandering through the rooms (diligently using our Rick Steves guidebook!)

Aerial view of the main room at the Orsay.

The Impressionist rooms are the most famous at the Orsay and we got to see many famous paintings that we recognized instantly. Monet, Manet, Rodin, Gauguin, Toulouse-Lautrec, Degas, Van Gogh, Cezanne... we were saturated by the big shots!

Just one of the many...!

The Orsay used to have a hotel and the main ballroom was the hottest hangout for high society. The room was really beautiful:

Just one corner in the Grand Ballroom.

After the Orsay we were already pooped, but it was only noon, so we pressed on. We walked to the Rue Cler neighborhood to eat at the famous Cafe Marche (noted by Rick in his book as the place to see and be seen for lunch. ) Then we walked all the way back to L'Hotel des Invalides, the enormous military hospital/museum/place where famous people are buried, etc. I'm afraid we didn't do the place enough justice, but we did visit Napoleon's Tomb. And we had every intention of visiting one of the military museums, but we just... couldn't.

Instead, we went here:

No explanations needed. We waited in line for over an hour and the prices, again, were villanously high. But still. The views were worth it.

Crashing now.... Versailles tomorrow!

Yesterday

2007-01-02T17:42:00.000-05:00

Here's a little overview of what happened yesterday (Monday, January 1) since we were so exhausted we didn't have a chance to post...

Our late morning finally got started with a walking tour of Montmartre and Sacre-Coeur. It was amazing to be in the Montmartre area and see such a different side of Paris: seedier, sexier, and, well, more bohemian! We did the whole climb up to Sacre-Coeur (no funiculas for us, thankyouverymuch) and had a fantastic view of the city.

Josh pauses on our climb up to Sacre-Coeur.

Other interesting spots in Montmartre were: a club-turned-art gallery where Edith Piaf sang... the Lapin Agile Cabaret, still a hangout for local bohemians and a favorite spot for free thinkers like Picasso and Paul Verlaine... Place du Tertre, a whole square completely filled with artists selling their paintings and sketching portraits of tourists... and of course, the Moulin Rouge! (Baz Luhrmann sure took some liberties.)

The famous Moulin Rouge -- it's still a busy concert venue/cabaret.

By this point in our travels, the fast pace of the past week was catching up to us. We took the train home and did some much-needed laundry. Afterwards we headed to the Grand Palais museum which had an awesome exhibit on Walt Disney, oddly enough. The theme of the exhibit was exploring the artistic inspirations behind Disney's characters and films. It was really fun and very cool to see some original stuff from the Disney archives.

After the museum, we decided to pause from the hectic touring and went to see "Casino Royale" at the movie theater on the Champs Elysees. The ticket prices were absolutely outrageous!!!! But we both loved the film. We rested up and got a good night's sleep, which was useful considering the day we had on Tuesday........

Back in Paris

2007-01-01T16:56:00.000-05:00

So we slacked a little bit in posting on our last couple days in Switzerland. We were just enjoying ourselves way too much! Some highlights:

On Friday Josh and I took the train to Bern, the capital of Switzerland. It is almost as beautiful as Zurich and just as charming to visit. We explored the old town and climbed the impossibly high tower of the Munster, affording an amazing aerial view of the city. Those spiral stairs were scary, though. A view from the top:

View from the other side of the tower, Alps in the background:

We also visited the famous bear pits which have housed the bears that give the city its name for hundreds of years. I felt bad for them, but they were really funny to watch as they effortlessly caught food thrown down to them. (The food was specially sold for the bears... no nasty people food to harm them, never fear!)

Pedro the bear waiting to catch food in his mouth.

After an interesting Shabbat experience at the Reform congregation -- Josh accepted an aliyah and made such an impression that he was invited to return to lead High Holiday services! -- we opted to take an overnight train back to Paris. We booked two spots in the "couchette" car, i.e. the sleep cars with six beds to a compartment. The train left at 11pm, and we were alone in the cabin... or so we thought. Two more couples got on at different stops during the ride. It was noisy, cramped, and turbulent. We didn't sleep a wink, and arrived in Paris at 7am in a state of utter exhaustion. We crawled back to the apartment and back into bed to sleep until mid-morning!

With Evelyne and Thibaut, our gracious hosts, at the train station before our educational experience with the "couchettes."

Post-napping, we dragged ourselves out to the Marais section of the city and did a walking tour. We felt like we were back in Jerusalem in the Jewish Quarter, where falafel and "chawarma" stands abound. Most interesting was the extensive and moving Shoah memorial which is also a WWII education center.

As for New Year's Eve... well, we were so zonked from our night of no sleep, we decided to stay in and celebrate quietly with a funny French New Year's Eve program on TV. We did do a lot today but this post is so long so I'll update tomorrow. Happy 2007 everyone!!!

Rigi and Lucerne

2006-12-29T05:21:00.000-05:00

Yesterday was another early wake-up call, followed by a drive down to the Rigi, via the charming hamlet of Vitznau. We took the cable car up to the summit and walked down for an hour before returning the rest of the way by cable car. We then drove to Luzern (the city where Evelyne and Thibaut were married a little over a year ago), and were treated to lunch by Evelyne's charming parents Sylvia and Leonard at the historic Hotel Montana. An afternoon spent sight-seeing around "the most beautiful city in Europe" led to our return to Zurich in time to catch Ariadne auf Naxos at the Opera House!

An oasis of green rising out of the northern Alps

Evelyne, Donna and Josh on our way down the Rigi.

Evelyne's parents, Leonard and Sylvia (who is Ruth's first cousin)

Luzern has the oldest wooden bridge in Europe!

Switzerland!

2006-12-27T16:40:00.000-05:00

This morning we rose early to a completely dark morning (the sun doesn't rise here until after 8am) to catch the TGV to Zurich. The train ride was beautiful as it wound through the French/Swiss countrysides. We met up with my cousins Evelyne and Thibaut who live in Zurich, and spent the afternoon walking around this amazing city.

Zurich is full of gorgeous shops, beautiful pedestrian streets, and historic architecture. Everything is decorated for the holiday season, with lights hanging above many of the streets. A couple pics from our walking tour:

View from the west side of the Limmat river, which bisects Zurich and empties into Zurich Lake (Zurichsee).

Josh "drinking" from a cool fountain in the middle of a square.

Great view from the top of the Lindenhof; the Grossmunster cathedral has the two tall towers.

We walked up and down the Bahnhofstrasse, the main drag in Zurich, ogling all the store window displays, and ended up at an authentic Swiss fondue restaurant for dinner. We gorged on amazing cheese fondue and called it a night. Tomorrow we plan to go to Lucerne...

The photos on my Flickr website are all messed up... I'll try to have them updated, ordered and labeled tomorrow!

Day Two

2006-12-26T17:20:00.000-05:00

Another amazing day here in Paris. As much as I can, I'll do a quick summary:

This morning we started out with Rick Steves' tour of the Champs Elysees. The tour started at the Arc de Triomphe, which was imposing! We didn't go to the top -- Josh wants to save his aerial view of Paris for the Eiffel Tower. A fun pic from l'Arc:

Donna imitating La Marseillaise sculpture.

Our walk took us all the way down the huge boulevard of the Champs Elysees to Place de la Concorde. Along the boulevard we enjoyed the funky concept cars in the Peugeot and Toyota dealerships... people watching... haute couture shops... and imagining what it must have looked like 100 years ago!

Crazy concept car at Peugeot

Cakes in Laduree, famous sweet shop/cafe built in 1862

At the fountain in Place de la Concorde. Many famous people were executed here, including Marie Antoinette.

First crepe of the vacation!

After the walk to Place de la Concorde, we tried to go to Musee d'Orsay but the line had 500 people in it. We walked a mile down back to Sainte Chapelle and the Conciergerie, which were both closed on Christmas Day. We toured both of those, then walked BACK to the Institute Francaise to do a self-guided walking tour of the Left Bank, including the hotel where Oscar Wilde died, a shop full of Petit Prince toys, St. Germain-des-Pres, Rue des Canettes and St. Sulpice. We got lots of amazing photos but you'll have to check them out here!

We finished the day by meeting up with a Parisian friend we both know from Boston. We went with Philip to dinner and had a really lovely evening -- and he drove us all over the city to see the great views. We are leaving very early in the morning for Zurich... more to come when we have a chance to post in Switzerland!

Paris: Day One

2006-12-25T16:27:00.000-05:00

Today was our first full day in Paris! We arrived yesterday after a long day of travel (a 4:00am wake-up to make a 9am flight. Ouch.) -- but we didn't have any problems with the flight and were able to find Seungyeon's apartment easily. This morning we caught up a bit on our sleep and then hit the city for a self-guided tour of historic Paris. We are depending almost entirely on our Rick Steves' guidebook, which has kept all its promises and has been an excellent guide so far. So, Day One, Historic Walk:

Start of walk: Notre Dame. It was teeming with tourists, and we arrived in time to catch the end of Christmas Day mass! Donna imagined she could see Quasimodo hidingup in the high balconies.

Our first view of Notre Dame
All the people gathered for Christmas mass at Notre Dame

After Notre Dame: Deportation Memorial, Left Bank Booksellers, and a stop for lunch (at a cafe, of course!) Then we went on to the Shakespeare & Co. English bookstore:

Then we went to Saint Severin, the Latin Quarter (which is really more like the Greek quarter with all the gyro restaurants!), and Place Saint Michele.

We tried to go to Saint Chapelle and the Conciergerie, but they were closed on Xmas day! We walked through Place Dauphine to Pont Neuf where we caught an evening sightseeing cruise on the Seine. Afterwards, a lovely Italian dinner, and crashing at home.

See ALL the photos at Donna's Flickr photo website!!

Semester 1/10: check

2006-12-23T10:56:00.000-05:00

My first of ten semesters at HUC has come to a close, and I have an opportunity to give a brief update here before Donna and I leave for Paris, Zurich and Lucerne tomorrow morning.

This morning at services the Murstein synagogue was overflowing with so many Hanukkah visitors, Birthright groups and congregational tours that a second service was held in the Mo'adon (student lounge) to accommodate everybody. I chanted the Haftarah portion for the second Shabbat in Hanukkah, which is rarely heard because Hanukkah rarely contains two Shabbatot! It went well, especially considering it was the first time I had chanted a Haftarah since I became bar mitzvah twelve years ago.

Over the last several weeks, I've written a few papers, taken several exams, and seen much. The other evening while a group of us were walking through Meah Shearim, the most ultra-Orthodox neighborhood in Jerusalem, our poor guide was severely chastised by a black-hatted resident, who was very angry that we were violating the sanctity of their streets. Translated from the Hebrew, the man accused him of being an "evil one" and that we should "return to Germany" speedily and without delay. We did as he asked and paused to collect ourselves in the shadow of the Ethiopian church. In the course of our ensuing discussion, someone remarked upon the irony that a group of Jews should find sanctuary in a churchyard from the wrath of a fellow Jew. Perhaps, they continued, we as Reform Jews do indeed have more in common with Christians than with the ultra-Orthodox.

I don't know what I think about that sentiment. It's true that the 20 of us walked brazenly through Meah Shearim despite the sign that implores us not to, but we were not just some group of tourists. We wanted to see the Hanukkah lights ablaze in the doorways, and hopefully learn something about the way of life within them. The ultra-Orthodox in Israel are called haredim, in that they "tremble" before G-d, but that night I think we were trembling far more than they were.

I'm actually still trembling, but for a different reason: it's cold outside! The weather has definitely turned toward winter, complete with a chilly rain and cloudy skies today. We hope to see some snow in Switzerland, if not in Paris, and to show it off in photos to be posted right here. Stay tuned...

The Home Stretch

2006-12-11T15:47:00.000-05:00

Things are getting fairly busy and and a bit stressful here as the school semester draws to a close. I (Donna) have a pretty full voice studio now with sixteen students! Teaching is very gratifying and is a wonderful way to fill up my days. The income is also helping us keep food on the table (aside from all the wonderful dishes we get from my savta, of course!) Rehearsals for "Patience" are going wonderfully and I'm in hog heaven to be involved with a G&S show again.

Josh is slogging through the many papers, take-home exams, at-school exams, concerts, meetings, etc etc etc, that have reared their heads all at the same time. It's like a mad rush towards the end of the term, and all the students found their workloads suddenly tripled. Josh is working very hard and we're both looking forward eagerly to our trip to Paris and Switzerland! We leave on December 24th, and will likely take the train to Zurich on the 26th. My relatives are in Zurich and Lucerne, and we are looking forward to seeing them and to touring as much of the country as we can. Then it's back to Paris where we'll both explore the famous city for the first time. So excited!

That's it for now. I'm going to "encourage" Josh to write his own post soon. It is called "Mr. BREITZER," after all....

Stuffed

2006-11-24T04:10:00.000-05:00

Happy Thanksgiving!!!

Last night we went to a large kosher potluck to celebrate Thanksgiving. Our hostess had to make a choice between meat or milk, and she went with dairy to accommodate vegetarians and others who keep kosher. We did miss the turkey a little bit, but there was SO MUCH food to distract us from the lack of meat!! Donna made a giant noodle kugel from Josh's recipe and it was a huge hit. We'll be working off the desserts for a while...!

We missed our families and hope everyone had a great holiday. A couple photos from the evening:

Just a sampling of the huge buffet. Our noodle kugel is front and center (with the spatula just waiting to break the surface!!

Just one of the many overflowing plates of delicious food.

Donna, Stephanie (our generous hostess) and Jamie, hanging out in Steph's room.

In other news, we have booked a vacation to Paris at the end of December! We plan to explore the city and also to take the Eurorail (sp?) to Switzerland to visit Donna's family in Zurich and Lucerne. We can't wait!

Gambling Rabbis?

2006-11-17T03:51:00.000-05:00

Last night we attended a Vegas Casino Night event at HUC, a fundraiser for the upcoming Passover trip to the Former Soviet Union (FSU). Several students at HUC will be going to the FSU to lead seders in the homes of Jewish families. The fundraiser last night was a great success, and a great excuse to get dolled up. There were also a bunch of raffle prizes, and my name was the first one to be called as a winner! We won 1 Large Family-Style Pizza from Pizza Panini (whose owner, incidentally, lives in the apartment directly below us.)

Another pizza prize went to our friends Erin and Matt, who are Ohio State alums (hisssssss) -- but we won't hold that against them. We plan on redeeming both pizza coupons tomorrow night when we go over to their apartment to watch the BIGGEST GAME EVER!!!!

Here are some pics from Casino Night at HUC:

Donna and Mary.

Josh deals Texas Hold 'Em while David shows off all his winnings.

Awwwwwwww.

Hee hee. Funny Israelis.

2006-11-12T09:59:00.000-05:00

On the front door at Erin and Matt's apartment building. (Click to enlarge!)

All that door banting's keeping me up at night...

Pics! Pics! Pics!

2006-11-10T07:20:00.000-05:00

In response to overwhelming demand from the millions of readers of "Mr.BGTJ", here are some photos from today's festivities at HUC. Josh and Donna performed with the student choir and Josh played keyboard in the Simcha band as part of the Israeli Rabbinic Ordination and Convocation ceremonies. Seven Israelis were ordained as rabbis, and some honorary degrees were conferred, including a Doctor of Humane Letters degree that was given to Prof. Aharon Barak, former President of the The Supreme Court of Israel.

Anyway, we took some fun pics of ourselves and of our great friends at HUC! Click on the photos to see them full-size.

Donna and three awesome Cantorial students: Mary Thomas, David Frommer and Jamie Marx! We look happy because we just got free food.

On the balcony of the Blaustein Hall, with the amazing view of the Old City in the background.

Buug and Snuug! ;-P

HUC singers! From left: Melanie, Hayley, Cassie, Cheryl, David, Mary, Jamie, Jaimee, and Helayne.

The Simcha band! Josh on keyboard; Dave Vaisberg, percussion; Matt Cohen and Beau Shapiro, guitars (Beau is blocked in this pic); and Cantor Tamar Havilio, vocals. At the podium is Rabbi Michael Marmur, Dean of HUC.

Josh rocking out on the cool red keyboard during the pre-processional.

Oud 'til ya can't Oud no more!

2006-11-06T16:12:00.000-05:00

Tonight we went to a concert of Andalusian Oud, one of the many concerts playing during the Jerusalem Oud Festival. The Oud is a pear-shaped string instrument that is closely related to the Lute. The concert tonight featured four very versatile and virtuosic musicians who each played a variety of cool and unusual instruments, including a medieval guitar, various flutes and recorders, and plenty of hand drums and tambourines of different sizes. The audience was totally into the music and we really enjoyed the eclectic nature of the concert! We definitely plan on going to at least one more concert during the festival.

I (Donna) spent some time in Rehovot this weekend visiting Savta and Saba; and of course returned to Jerusalem with two bags full of food that will last us for at least a month! We spent a rainy, gloomy day (so bizarre!) at the mall in Rehovot, where Savta spoiled me a little bit with some presents of clothing. Thanks to the abrupt shift in climate here in Jerusalem, I felt compelled to get a heavy winter coat which could probably keep me warm even in Boston! It's getting REALLY cold here, though, so I'm grateful to have it.

Last week I auditioned for the Jerusalem English Speaking Theater (JEST). The show is "Patience" by Gilbert and Sullivan, so of course I could not resist, being a huge G&S fan. I'm happy to report that I was cast in a supporting lead role as Lady Angela. The rehearsal period is quite long (only one rehearsal a week for quite some time), seeing as how we start this Wednesday and the show performs in mid-March!

Josh is keeping plenty busy with his schoolwork as usual. On Saturday he chanted from the Torah, reading from the same portion he did on his Bar Mitzvah. He did a marvellous job -- a colleague put it best when he turned around in his seat and said to everyone, "well, the bar has been set!" We are both participating this Friday in an ordination ceremony for the Israeli Rabbinical students (we'll be singing with the choir.) The ceremony is at the same time as the Gay Pride Parade that has faced such serious threats from the Orthodox community here. We hope that everyone will be able to march in peace and that nobody will be hurt. It is a shame that there should be such intolerance here in this holy city...

Our best to everyone back home! xoxo

Jerusalem Sunset

2006-10-28T10:29:00.000-04:00

I snapped these pics on the way to Kabbalat Shabbat services last night at HUC. Josh sang a duet with Mary (the student cantor who co-led services last night) and it was really beautiful. Two gorgeous voices!!

Pink sunset over Moshe Hess street

View up Moshe Hess curving to the left to Washington St! Our building is further past the bend...

Front view of Hebrew Union College with pretty sunset behind.

Shabbat Shalom

2006-10-27T05:10:00.000-04:00

It is always a relief when Friday rolls around here in Jerusalem, when the usual roar of construction and traffic diminishes, and one can hear birds singing in the morning. It's the one morning each week that Josh can sleep in, and I know how much he appreciates his morning off. Tonight we will attend Kabbalat Shabbat services at HUC; afterwards we will join friends for dinner.

Yesterday I went on a trip to the Mount of Olives with several of the other SO's (Significant Others of HUC students). Our tour leader Gingy (a.k.a. David Wilfond) is an extremely knowledgeable Renaissance man (Rabbi, teacher, Outreach Director) with an extensive library of stories to share about the history of Jerusalem. Below are a few of the photos I took -- you can see all the photos from the trip at my Flickr Photo Website!

View from the summit of the Mount of Olives

Church of Dominus Flevit

Knarled olive trees in the Garden of Gethsemane

Words from an interloper!

2006-10-22T13:47:00.000-04:00

It's Donna here. I've taken over Josh's blog temporarily to add my own impressions of our life in Israel. (What actually transpired was that Josh finally got sick of my constant nagging -- "Why haven't you updated your blog?!" -- and made me an official member of Mr. Breitzer Goes to Jerusalem, with posting rights and everything!)

Right now Josh and I are both getting over a cold that Josh seemed to pick up in Rehovot when we were visiting my family last weekend. His eye-infection-turned-head-cold is spreading through the ranks at HUC, and of course I got it as well. Needless to say it's been tougher for Josh, as he actually has to get up early each day and go to school, and do work, etc etc.... Whereas my day consists of being the World's Biggest Lazybutt. I hope this designation will soon change; I hope to start teaching voice lessons soon, and there might be a possibility of some Gilbert and Sullivan in my future...

In other news, my father was here last week on business and we spent some time with him in Rehovot (cf paragraph 2, Josh's eye infection.) My parents set me the task of finding a nice silver kiddush cup that would be engraved as a present for my aunt and uncle's 30th wedding anniversary. I went to the Ben Yehuda area to look through the many touristy Judaica shops, comparing prices and inquiring about the turnaround time for engraving; everyone told me it took one day. I asked Josh to come with me to make a final decision and we picked out a lovely cup in a bright, welcoming new shop. I purchased the cup on Wednesday and was told it would be ready on Friday morning -- perfect, since Dad was coming to Jerusalem on Friday morning to say goodbye, and he could take it with him. The shopkeeper told me that the store "opens at 10:00 am. Be sure to come before noon!"

Blissfully naive (read: used to American consumer standards), we went to the store on Friday morning with my father, and of course the cup wasn't there. What ensued was an outright Israeli-style verbal brawl between Dad and the indignant, rude shopkeeper who seemed to be well trained in "customer disservice." After 2 hours of leaving, coming back, arguing, etc etc, we had no choice but to go home and wait for them to call us when the cup was ready. (This call never came. I had to call them and the shopkeeper who had been conversing with me freely during the morning tried to convince me that he didn't speak English. When I started in with my less-than-perfect Hebrew, he was trapped. Ha.) We went back and got the cup right before the shop closed at 2pm, and Dad had to drive back to Jerusalem in the evening to pick it up...

Well. Lessons learned. This blogging seems addictive so perhaps this interloper's presence won't exactly be "temporary..."

Turn, turn, turn...

2006-10-16T15:44:00.000-04:00

Having never really celebrated Sukkot before, I didn't realize that the special reading for the holiday is the book of Ecclesiastes, from which comes everyone's favorite Pete Seeger song. It really is fitting, though, to read about the changing of seasons while observing the seasons change here in Jerusalem - quite literally overnight.

At the end of the seven days of Sukkot -that is, the fall harvest - comes Shemini Atzeret-Simchat Torah, in which the yearly cycle of Torah readings begins again, and after which Israelis start praying for the rains to come and sate the parched land. Simchat Torah was Saturday; it rained here on Sunday. Not a drizzling or sprinkling, mind you, but a full-blown cloudburst during my first class of the day. Upon hearing the drops begin to fall, everyone turned to the windows, exclaiming in unison, "Geshem!" Clouds are now a permanent fixture in the Zion skies and the average temperature has fallen a good 10-15 degrees. Sometimes you really do get what you ask for...

So for my 25th birthday last Thursday, along with the shift in weather patterns, my fiancee's return, and plenty of well wishes from friends and family, I received a nasty little cold that began in my eye and has migrated south into my ears, nose and throat. Needless to say, I did not ask for this, yet getting a cold in the fall is a remarkably pleasant reminder of home. :)

Happiness

2006-10-10T03:16:00.000-04:00

Donna's back, and I have a week off. It's all good. :-)

Ring out the old

2006-09-20T11:47:00.000-04:00

These days, there's a rush of busy excitement in the Jerusalem air, and a constant stream of classes and rehearsals within the HUC campus, but I try to enjoy every moment of it. As Rosh Hashanah draws nigh, I want to wish everybody a happy and sweet new year. For me it is sure to be one full of new challenges and opportunities, including the opportunity to see the wedding dress that Donna bought...but not until June 10!

On becoming learned

2006-09-10T11:09:00.000-04:00

One week into the fall term and I'm still adjusting to full days' worth of classes, conducted mostly in Hebrew and thus requiring every iota of my attention. The real challenge for me, however, is in constantly reminding myself that I don't have to learn everything about being a cantor this year. At the same time, I strive to remain engaged in the material of the hour and to retain as much of it as I can.

Donna has booked a flight back to Israel on October 9, and I seek to do all I can to keep from actively counting the hours...

Imp at work

2006-08-27T13:09:00.000-04:00

Now I can finally admit in public to being less than honest with my recent activities. For the past two weeks, I've been conspiring with Donna's friends and family to surprise her with a weeklong visit to California for my pre-fall term break. Thanks to Jillian, we have the moment of surprise fully photodocumented:

"Mmm, soft hands. Is that you, Cinyee?"

"Oh, it's just Josh. [beat] JOSH??"

Shock ensues.

A teary reunion!

Pretty good crowd for a Yom Rishon

2006-08-21T09:40:00.000-04:00

The past weeks have become something of a blur as I inch ever closer to the end of the summer session. For all those buugged by my negligence, here's a news brief:

Last night our class held its first Beit Cafe, literally "house of coffee," but in actuality more akin to a talent show in which students performed for staff, visitors, and each other. All the cover charges and refreshment sales went directly to aid recovery in Northern Israel, and we managed to raise over 4000 NIS - roughly $1000. I played the piano in several acts, including a hastily arranged blues trio (guitar, harmonica). It's been a while since I tickled the ivories in public, and being the only student in my class with the relevant background, I was more than happy to oblige. The evening ended with a parody of "Don't Worry, Be Happy" and a Billy Joel sing-along, enjoyed by all.

Today in ulpan I gave my oral presentation on how I asked for Donna's hand in marriage, accompanied by a computer slide show and an attempt to play back the proposal on my weak laptop speakers. The ladies of the class (including my teacher) were sufficiently moved, while the men donned stoic expressions and nodded gravely as I passed the images around. I also took the opportunity to create a "teachable moment" by writing the names of several classical composers on the board - in Hebrew. As if Hebrew-English transliteration isn't tough enough to decipher - just try reading a familiar name in a Semitic script!

Not having Donna around is kind of a bummer, but I am already counting the days...

Taking pride

2006-08-09T08:44:00.000-04:00

Last night I was invited to take part in the opening interfaith convocation for 2006 Jerusalem WorldPride, a weeklong festival that seeks to "bring a new focus to an ancient city through a massive demonstration of LGBT dignity, pride, and boundary-crossing celebration." I was one of a handful of HUC students to comprise the choir that sang in between speeches by clergy from various denominations. A good-sized crowd packed the HUC courtyard to witness the event, which also included remarks by Congressman Jerrold Nadler (D-NY). I told him we were all pushing for Joe Lieberman in Connecticut; I guess we didn't push hard enough!

It was incredibly inspiring and to see and hear so many people determined to make the world more tolerant, and especially to gather together in the heart of such a holy city where religious fundamentalists from all sects, who would otherwise have nothing to do with each other, unite only in their condemnation of homosexuality. As most of the speakers pointed out, however, the true "abomination" is that they condemn in the name of G-d, whose very nature is love!

There was a lot of press in attendance, and I suspect all the photos of the evening may be found at the festival's website.

I was proud to be on hand, and prouder still that the festival is taking place on the HUC campus, whose enclosed nature guarantees the utmost security to all, and whose open doors welcome everyone regardless of appearance, attitude, or orientation.

Blood and witchcraft

2006-08-02T08:45:00.000-04:00

Yesterday the Magen David Adom (Israeli Red Cross) came to HUC to conduct a blood drive, and I decided I could afford to spare a pint or two for the soldiers. It was my first time ever giving blood, and I was the last one of the day - spent more time waiting for one of the 4 beds than I did being stuck with the needle!

After replenishing my lost sugar, I went with five classmates via sherut (10 passenger taxi) to Tel Aviv to surprise Donna at her performance of "The Crucible," an opera based on the Arthur Miller play. I had told her we'd be unable to attend because of the busy weekday schedule at school...but being occasionally devious has its advantages! Happily, she didn't even see us until the curtain call at the end; we all agreed the look on her face of simultaneous shock and delight was the best part of the evening.

We didn't get back to Jerusalem until 1:00am, but I'd say both my mitzvot were well worth the late night!

A good connection and motley pics

2006-07-27T14:27:00.000-04:00

After nearly a month in Israel, we finally have our own aDSL internet connection! All the paperwork finally got properly processed by the phone company, and after a few hours tinkering with the newly acquired modem, we are up and running. No more need for the neighbor's "GAL;" now I've got my own! ;-)

To celebrate the occasion, here are some long overdue pictures of recent exploits:

Just before officially registering at HUC in Jerusalem. Donna calls this "The Eager Student."

With Donna's baby cousin Ben in Kfar Sabe, north of Tel Aviv, when he took a break from sucking on my hand.

Thanks to my classmate Mara Judd, here is evidence that I examined Warren's Shaft, not to be confused with anything belonging to my good friend Mitch.

Echoing guffaws

2006-07-25T09:32:00.000-04:00

"Guffaw," like "gesture," is one of those words I've read many times in books but have never used in conversation. Since I moved to Jerusalem, though, I'm tempted to use just that word to describe the laughter of a neighbor across the courtyard.

The apartment is on the top floor of the building and I usually keep all the windows open to let in the breeze. In so doing, I also let in the surrounding city noises, but this man's guffawing is no noise. It's of the deep, rumbling, from-your-belly variety that echoes across the courtyard and probably throughout the whole Yemin Moshe neighborhood. There's a slightly malicious twang to it, verging on the cackle - but I've never heard of a villain who cackled so much, not even Gargamel. He guffaws during the day and during the night, no matter what the hour.

We have no idea what this man finds so amusing, but, like crickets after sunset. it's become rather reassuring to hear his resounding voice. When mingled with the area cats in throes of passion (see the post "Caterwauling in Rehovot"), the resulting cacaphony transcends any description I could offer.

Field trip

2006-07-20T00:05:00.001-04:00

Classes continue and I feel like I'm progressing! I've settled into a routine these past few days that essentially looks like this:

6:00a - Arise
6:30a - Breakfast
7:45a - Tefilah (prayer service)
8:30a - Ulpan I
10:00a - Snack break
10:30a - Ulpan II
12:00p - Break
12:15p - Ulpan III
1:00p - Lunch
2:00p - Choir/music theory/some meeting
4:00p - Errands
6:00p - Home
6:30p - Dinner
7:00p - Study
10:00p - Bedtime

I'm always grateful to be able to crawl into bed at night after a packed day. Today, however, the trend is broken by our first of three "Jerusalem Days." We will explore the City of David, which is actually the oldest continually habitated part of Jerusalem - and it's outside the Old City! Highlights will include tefilah on the Haas Promenade overlooking the entire city and wading through Hezekiah's tunnel (mentioned in the Bible) and its 3-4' of water. Luckily Donna and her folks stopped by for dinner last night, bearing me a pair of Keen hybrids (sneaker + sandal = ingenious).

This week will culminate in a trip to Rehovot for Shabbat with the extended Bareket clan. Thanks to all for your continued good wishes!

First day of school

2006-07-16T06:59:00.000-04:00

I just collapsed at my desk after a full morning of ulpan (Hebrew immersion class), kita gimel (level 3 out of 5). Each of the dozen students in the class had to introduce themselves and speak of their background. Then we dove into a short story by Yosel Bierstein about an illiterate, long-suffering woman who can only express herself through crying (much to the annoyance of her neighbors), and who finally learns her 'alef-bet' after attending a funeral, where crying is the norm.

It will not be a walk in the park, but I think the level is right for me. My major aim will be to increase my vocabulary and bring my speaking ability up to my reading comprehension. The instructor is calm but insistent, and today she was dressed in flowing white garments that made her look something like a swan.

It was an enjoyable, restful Shabbat, made even better by Donna's visit. I am definitely coming to appreciate the benefits of completely abstaining from work for a day! This week will be long and full of work, but the thought of Shabbat at its end is sweet indeed.

Reassurance

2006-07-13T12:19:00.000-04:00

I'm okay, folks.

Here's my reaction to Israel's latest military actions: Jerusalem is the same as it was yesterday, the day before, and the week before. Obviously my colleagues and I are concerned, but just as we were reassured repeatedly today to use caution and that HUC has our back, so let me reassure my readers that I feel as safe as ever. Today I walked past the Central Bus Station, through the Shuk (marketplace), and down the Ben Yehuda pedestrian mall - all places swarming with crowds while military, police, and security officers strolled around ever vigiliantly. Not once did I feel insecure of myself, and if I didn't know any better, I would never have suspected of being in a land now warring on two fronts.

Since the state of Israel's birth nearly 60 years ago, Israelis have been living their lives the same way Americans have since 9/11: as normally as they can, while relying on common sense and trusting their instincts. I intend to do the same.

A Breather

2006-07-12T10:12:00.000-04:00

Pant, pant, pant...

Orientation formally began today and it's been non-stop sessions since an 8:30 prayer service this morning. We are getting loads of information lobbed at us from all directions, and then we are reassured that since we're not going to remember any of it anyway, we shouldn't take it too seriously. Refreshing!

On the whole the process is going remarkably practically and smoothly. The cantorial students have been issued a piece to sing en masse this Shabbat, a heavy binder of High Holiday music to be rehearsed throughout the summer, and weekly music theory classes and 'regular' (semimonthly) voice lessons. I can tell already my work will be neatly cut out for me!

Tonight the president of HUC is hosting an open house, and tomorrow begins bright and early again with an 8:30 service. This time, I'll remember to bring my prayer shawl!

Flying Solo

2006-07-09T14:03:00.000-04:00

This evening, my betrothed went off to Tel Aviv to begin her four week opera program, and our apartment in Jerusalem is now a bachelor pad. She will be in and out sporadically, but for most of the next month I will have the place to myself, for better or for worse...

It was sad to part ways, especially after having spent virtually every moment together as of late. I didn't think it was possible for two people so in love to grow even closer, but as Donna remarked the other day, we understand each other so well now that sometimes it feels like we share the same mind. I will miss our intimate connection. I hope our respective schedules will keep us too busy to dwell on our distance!

I also hope I don't become too reclusive. While living in Boston I had a tendency to shut myself up in the Nest for days at a time, with the cold weather and digital cable only partly to blame. It was mostly my fear of trying new things in a new place. Having already met several of my colleagues, however, I am starting to feel very comfortable here, and the beautiful warm weather makes it all but impossible to resist venturing out!

Flying solo tonight, though, meant having some pita, hummus and grapes for dinner (well-stocked fridge courtesy Savta) and listening to our beloved NPR on "Gal," the WiFi network I'm borrowing for the time being which I can only receive at the very back corner of the desk. We'll soon have our own aDSL line, but I'm grateful for even a tenuous link to the world at large.

Tomorrow I mean to take care of some worldly matters like meeting our landlord's handyman friend, paying an electricity bill over the phone (most likely with an all-Hebrew menu system), and possibly paying another trip to Supersol (supermarket around the corner) for more pita, produce and yogurt, which I neglected to get today. Then comes a week of orientation activities, followed immediately by the beginning of ulpan. I'll bet I get put in Bet (level 2 out of 5); we shall see...

Shabbat on the Beach

2006-07-08T05:14:00.001-04:00

For Erev Shabbat this week we went with Donna's aunt, uncle, and cousins to a popular beach near Herzliyah, where we found hoards of people and minimal parking spaces. The name of the restaurant there loosely translates to "Edge of the Cliff," and they serve all sorts of the usual Israeli fare plus a few less traditional delicacies (i.e. shrimp, calamari, and ham & cheese sandwiches).

After a quiet morning in Rehovot spent poring over the crossword and Tchaikovsky music (guess who did what), we are planning to visit Donna's cousin Lital and her new baby Ben, who live north of Tel Aviv. Tonight we go back to Jerusalem to drop me off and so Donna can return to Rehovot on Sunday with Savta's car and begin her opera program on Monday morning. It will be sad to be apart for most of the next four weeks (we hope to spend Shabbats together), but it will also be good for me to fly solo, especially since I'll have to anyway for the six weeks Donna spends stateside this August-September.

We suffered another loss in our latest battle with Israeli bureaucracy. Yesterday we went to the Bezeq (telephone company) office to pick up our DSL modem, only to be told that (1) there was no record of our order and (2) we had to have written permission from our landlord allowing us to obtain a DSL modem for use with her apartment's telephone line. Borrowing the neighbor's wireless connection is working for the time being, but I suspect I'll have to go legit sooner or later.

Crow Eats Pizza

2006-07-06T08:35:00.000-04:00

We've met many of my future classmates in the last couple of days at various lectures and get-togethers, and they all seem like wonderful people.

As we walked up toward Ben Yehuda Street today, we passed through Independence Park, just a few minutes from our apartment. On the side of the road, we witnessed a crow struggling to fly with what appeared to be a slice of pizza in its beak.

Later, after browsing through the many shops in the area, we too put slices of pizza in our beaks.

Have to go put money in the parking meter...

A Bit of Bureaucracy

2006-07-04T04:31:00.000-04:00

This morning we awoke for the first time in the new apartment and set out to City Hall to inquire about a residential parking permit for Savta's car. As it turns out, City Hall is actually multiple buildings in a square at the foot of Jaffa St, which makes sense since the actual Hebrew translation of where we were is "municipality."

After being initially misdirected to a tourism hotline, we were sent to the building containing the parking office. The man at the desk sat calmly with stone-cut features and spiky grey hair while he informed us we could not obtain a parking permit unless the car was registered in either our name or a parent's name. I left feeling a bit defeated, though Donna remarked that she had only needed to claim she was the daughter of Yehoshua Bareket (Saba), and the bureaucrat wouldn't have known the difference.

Oh well. In the words of a wounded soldier, "I'll lay me down and bleed a while, then up to fight again..."

The Russians of Rishon LeTzion

2006-07-02T16:50:00.000-04:00

Tonight we went with Savta and her friends to an operetta in Rishon LeTzion, north of Rehovot. The show was Die Csárdásfürstin, composed by Emmerich Kálmán , a Hungarian Jew who flourished in the early 20th century. Since Donna and I sing as well, this might have proven to be an enjoyable evening indeed...were it not for the fact that the libretto, the performers, and the majority of the audience were all Russian!

The house was loud, the people's cell phones noisy, and they sang and clapped along with virtually every song. For Donna it was a nuisance; for me it was another charming novelty. I especially enjoyed the leading lady's sunburnt back and obvious tanlines.

Tomorrow we go back to Jerusalem, this time for a more extended stay as I tend to more registration duties and Donna tends to her music.

New digs and old delicacies

2006-06-30T15:19:00.000-04:00

In the past couple of days, we've visited Donna's family in Yavneh and Tel Aviv, and also swung by Jerusalem to sneak a peek at our new apartment! You can see our first impressions here. I also picked up a registration packet from HUC which contained, among other things, yet another Hebrew placement test... No pressure this time, as it's just to determine which level of ulpan ("studio") is best for me this summer.

I heard on NPR once that if Israel were to have an official food, it would certainly be hummus. After less than a week here, I must agree - it's unlike anything you can find in the USA! Same goes for all the produce and dairy products here; they taste like they hail from a land of milk and honey. Hmm...

Caterwauling in Rehovot

2006-06-28T08:31:00.000-04:00

After two painless plane rides, I made it to Ben Gurion Airport, where I breezed through passport control and customs and retrieved both of the bags I checked! Donna was there waiting with her uncle Meir and he drove us to her grandparents' house in Rehovot, which is where we are crashing for the moment. In a few days we will make our way to our Jerusalem abode (pictures to follow), but until then I'm glad for the chances to get accustomed to the time change and to meet some more future in-laws!

Upon arriving in Rehovot last night, we ate dinner, courtesy Donna's grandmother "Safta the amazing cook," and went for a stroll down Herzl St, the main drag. I found the town to be charming indeed ("It's just a novelty for you," replied D), replete with outdoor shops, food stands, and clumps of locals crowded around TVs watching Brazil versus Ghana.

I also learned a new word to describe the peculiarly melodious sound of felines at night while in heat...

The night before

2006-06-25T22:36:00.000-04:00

All packed and prepared for the journey ahead, after a few trips to the mall and Meijer. I had forgotten how nice it is to take a Mom shopping with you, as you're bound to come home with full bags and a full wallet!

Last blasts

2006-06-22T23:59:00.000-04:00

I've enjoyed these last few weeks home in Michigan, reconnecting with good friends and family, tending to the schizophrenic puppy and getting all sorts of necessary items via UPS. It's hard to believe that I'm leaving for Israel on Monday! I'm looking forward to a day in the A2 tomorrow, followed by a requisite weekend of cleaning and packing.

Sometime in these last few weeks Obligatory Anxiety has reared its ugly head. As Mom wryly noted, though, I felt similarly anxious before going to Boston, going to college, and even going to middle school. Of course I'll be over it in a matter of days, but the excitement, the anticipation, and a mild case of cabin fever all seem to prolong my state. Crunches and push-ups help; I'm up to 200 and 75 respectively.

NB: Donna and I have set a date! Sunday, June 10, 2007 at the Dolce Hayes Mansion in San Jose, CA. For more info, find our site at www.weddingchannel.com.

Up and running

2006-05-23T18:19:00.000-04:00

As my time in Boston draws to a close and my journey to Israel grows nigh, I thought I should get the official blog up and running. So here it is!